Free Knitting Pattern from Lion Brand Yarn, formatted for input to refreshable Braille displays or Braille software
Lush Collared Blue Cardi
Lion Brand® Vanna's Choice®
Pattern Number: L0539

SKILL LEVEL:  Intermediate (Level 3)
SIZE: Small, Medium, Large, 1X, 2X
Finished Bust 41 (44, 48 1/2, 53, 57) in. (104 (112, 123, 134.5, 145) cm), unbuttoned Finished Length 21 1/2 (22, 22 1/2, 23, 23) in. (54.5 (56, 57, 58.5, 58.5) cm), not including collar
Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

CORRECTIONS: (applied Jun 23, 2011)
YOKE … Notes: … Decrease Row: Sl 1, *work in K1, p1 Rib as established to 1 st before next marker, k3tog; rep from * 5 more times, work in K1, p1 Rib as established to end of row - 87 (99, 101, 109, 113 93, 95, 103, 107) sts at the end of this row. Rep last 4 rows 2 more times - 63 (75, 77, 85, 89 69, 71, 79, 83) sts when all decreases have been completed. … Decrease Row: Sl 1, *work in K1, p1 Rib as established to 1 st before next marker, remove marker, k3tog; rep from * 3 more times, work in K1, p1 Rib as established to end of row - 55 (67, 69, 77, 81 61, 63, 71, 75) sts at the end of this row. Diagram Correction:The above is only a summary of corrections; the corrected pattern text is below (if free) or shipped upon completion of order (if purchased)

MATERIALS

860-109 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Colonial Blue

Medium blue


Quantity needed: 8 Skeins
Estimated Price: $ 35.12
Alternative Quantity: 8, 9, 10, 11

Lion Brand Crochet Hook - Size K-10.5 (6.5 mm)
Quantity needed: 1
Estimated Price: $ 2.65


Lion Brand Split Ring Stitch Markers
Quantity needed: 1
Estimated Price: $ 2.49


Lion Brand Stitch Holders
Quantity needed: 1
Estimated Price: $ 5.99


Lion Brand Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)
Quantity needed: 1
Estimated Price: $ 3.59

Additional Materials
circular knitting needle size 10.5 (6.5 mm), 36 in. (91.5 cm) long circular knitting needle size 13 (9 mm), 36 in. (91.5 cm) long
GAUGE:
10 sts + 14 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in St st (k on RS, p on RS) with larger needles and 2 strands of yarn held tog. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles. Making a Gauge Swatch
Exact gauges is not imporant to this project.

STITCH EXPLANATION:
kfb (knit into front and then back)
An increase worked as follows:
1.

Knit the next st through the front loop, but do not remove the st from your left hand needle.


2.

Knit the same st once more, this time inserting your needle through the back loop of the st.

You will have created 2 loops (sts) on your right hand needle.
3.

Drop the st from your left hand needle - you have increased 1 st.
sc2tog (sc 2 sts together) Insert hook into st and draw up a loop.

Insert hook into next st and draw up a loop.

Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook - 1 st decreased.
dec 4 (decrease 4 sts)
Note: Dec 4 creates a small pleat.

The pleat is a part of this design.
A decrease worked as follows:
1.

Insert right needle as if to purl, and slip the next 2 sts from the left needle, one at a time, to the right needle.
2.

Insert left needle into fronts of these 2 sts and knit them tog (ssk completed).
3.

Insert right needle as if to purl, and slip next st from left needle to right needle.
4.

With tip of left needle, lift the ssk (the 2nd st on right needle) up and over the slipped st (first st on right needle) and off the needle.
5.

Knit the next 2 sts on left needle tog.
6.

Insert left needle as if to purl, and slip the first 2 sts from right needle, one at a time, back to the left needle.
7.

Insert tip of right needle into 2nd st on left needle, lift the st up and over the first st on left needle and off the needle.
8.

Insert right needle as if to purl, and slip the first st on left needle back to the right needle - you have decreased 4 sts.
sk2p (slip-k2tog-pass slipped st over)
A double decrease worked as follows:
1.

Insert right needle as if to knit, and slip the next st from the left needle to the right needle.
2.

Knit the next 2 sts together.
3.

With tip of left needle, lift the slipped st (the 2nd st on right needle) up and over the k2tog (first st on right needle) and off the needle - you have decreased 2 sts.
ssk (slip, slip, knit) Slip next 2 sts as if to knit, one at a time, to right needle; insert left needle into fronts of these 2 sts and knit them tog - 1 st decreased.



PATTERN STITCH
K1, p1 Rib (over an odd number of sts)
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: Sl 1, k the knit sts and p the purl sts.
Rep Row 2 for K1, p1 Rib.

NOTES:
1.

Cardigan is worked with 2 strands of yarn held together throughout.
2.

Back, Fronts, and Sleeves are worked from lower edge up to Yoke (upper portion of cardigan).

The Yoke is then worked in one piece across the top of all 5 pieces up to neck.


3.

A circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of sts.

Work back and forth on circular needle as if working on straight needles.
4.

Pattern includes instructions for crocheted buttons.

If desired, use purchased buttons about 1 in.

(25 mm) diameter instead.


INSTRUCTIONS
BACK
With larger needle and 2 strands of yarn held tog, cast on 47 (53, 59, 63, 67) sts.

Work back and forth on circular needle as if working on straight needles.
Knit 2 rows.
Beg with a RS row, work even in St st (k on RS, p on WS) (work even means to work without increasing or decreasing) until piece measures 13 in.

(33 cm) from beg, end with a WS row.
Note: End with a WS row means that the last row you work should be a WS row, and the next row that you are ready to work will be a RS row.
Shape Raglan Armholes
Bind off 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) sts at beg of next 2 rows - 43 (49, 53, 57, 59) sts rem.
Decrease Row (RS): K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 - 41 (47, 51, 55, 57) sts at the end of this row.
Next Row: Purl.
Rep last 2 rows until 37 (41, 43, 45, 47) sts rem, end with a WS row.
Last Row (RS): K16 (18, 19, 20, 21), dec 4, k to end of row - 33 (37, 39, 41, 43) sts at the end of this row.
Sl these sts to a st holder.
LEFT FRONT
Note: When working Left Front, slip the first st of every WS row to create a neat front edge.
With larger needle and 2 strands of yarn held tog, cast on 27 (29, 31, 35, 37) sts.

Work back and forth on circular needle as if working on straight needles.
Knit 2 rows.
Note: Continue to sl first st of every WS row.
Beg with a RS row, work even in St st (k on RS, p on WS) until piece measures 13 in.

(33 cm) from beg, end with a WS row.
Shape Raglan Armholes
Bind off 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) sts at beg of next row - 25 (27, 28, 32, 33) sts rem.
Next Row (WS): Sl 1, purl to end of row.
Decrease Row (RS): K1, k2tog, k to end of row - 24 (26, 27, 31, 32) sts at the end of this row.
Next Row: Sl 1, purl to end of row.
Rep Decrease Row - 23 (25, 26, 30, 31) sts.
Rep last 2 rows until 22 (23, 23, 26, 27) sts rem, end with a WS row.
Last Row (RS): K9 (10, 11, 13, 14), dec 4, k to end of row - 18 (19, 19, 22, 23) sts at the end of this row.
Sl these sts to a st holder.



RIGHT FRONT
Note: When working Right Front, slip the first st of every RS row to create a neat front edge.
With larger needle and 2 strands of yarn held tog, cast on 27 (29, 31, 35, 37) sts.

Work back and forth on circular needle as if working on straight needles.
Knit 2 rows.
Beg with a RS row, work even in St st until piece measures 13 in.

(33 cm) from beg, end with a RS row.
Shape Raglan Armholes
Bind off 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) sts at beg of next row - 25 (27, 28, 32, 33) sts rem.
Decrease Row (RS): Sl 1, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 - 24 (26, 27, 31, 32) sts rem.
Next Row: Purl.
Rep Decrease Row - 23 (25, 26, 30, 31) sts.
Rep last 2 rows until 22 (23, 23, 26, 27) sts rem, end with a WS row.
Last Row (RS): K9 (10, 11, 13, 14), dec 4, k to end of row - 18 (19, 19, 22, 23) sts at the end of this row.
Sl these sts to a st holder.
SLEEVE (make 2)
With larger needle and 2 strands of yarn held tog, cast on 33 (35, 39, 41, 43) sts.

Work back and forth in rows on circular needle as if working on straight needles.
Knit 2 rows.
Beg with a RS row, work even in St st (k on RS, p on WS) for 4 rows.
Decrease Row (RS): K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 - 31 (33, 37, 39, 41) sts at the end of this row.
Work even in St st for 3 rows.
Rep Decrease Row - 29 (31, 35, 37, 39) sts rem.
Rep last 4 rows twice - 25 (27, 31, 33, 35) sts rem.
Work even in St st for 9 rows.
Increase Row (RS): K1, kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1 - 27 (29, 33, 35, 37) sts at the end of this row.
Rep last 10 rows twice - 31 (33, 37, 39, 41) sts when all increases have been completed.
Next Row (WS): Purl.
Shape Raglan Armhole
Bind off 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) sts at beg of next 2 rows - 27 (29, 31, 33, 33) sts rem.
Decrease Row (RS): K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 - 25 (27, 29, 31, 31) sts at the end of this row.
Next Row: Purl.
Rep Decrease Row - 23 (25, 27, 29, 29) sts rem.
Rep last 2 rows until 21 sts rem, end with a RS row.
Sl these sts to a st holder.
YOKE
Return pieces to larger needle in the following order, Right Front, Sleeve, Back, Sleeve, Left Front ready to work a RS row - 111 (117, 119, 127, 131) sts on needle.

Join 2 strands of yarn and working back and forth in rows on circular needle, knit 2 rows.
Next Row (RS): Work 1 row of K1, p1 Rib across.
Next (Buttonhole) Row (WS): Sl 1, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, k2tog, yo, p1, k1.
Next Row: Sl 1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end of row.
Next Row: Sl 1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end of row.
Decrease Row: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) times, k3tog, place marker (pm), p1, (k1, p1) 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) times, k3tog, pm, p1, (k1, p1) 6 (7, 7, 7, 8) times, k3tog, pm, p1, (k1, p1) 7 (6, 7, 7, 7) times, k3tog, pm, p1, (k1, p1) 6 (7, 7, 7, 8) times, k3tog, pm, p1, (k1, p1) 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) times, k3tog, pm, p1, (k1, p1) 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) times - 99 (105, 107, 115, 119) sts at the end of this row.
Notes:
1. On following rows, slip markers as you come to them.
2. Continue to sl first st of every row.
Work even in K1, p1 Rib as established for 3 rows.
Decrease Row: Sl 1, *work in K1, p1 Rib as established to 1 st before next marker, k3tog; rep from * 5 more times, work in K1, p1 Rib as established to end of row - 87 (93, 95, 103, 107) sts at the end of this row.
Rep last 4 rows 2 more times - 63 (69, 71, 79, 83) sts when all decreases have been completed.
Remove the first and last marker.
Work even in K1, p1 Rib as established for 3 rows.
Decrease Row: Sl 1, *work in K1, p1 Rib as established to 1 st before next marker, remove marker, k3tog; rep from * 3 more times, work in K1, p1 Rib as established to end of row - 55 (61, 63, 71, 75) sts at the end of this row.
Work even in K1, p1 Rib as established for 2 rows.
Rep Buttonhole Row.
Work even in K1, p1 Rib for 1 row.
Bind off.



COLLAR
Note: When working collar, slip the first st of every row.
From RS, with smaller needle and 2 strands of yarn held tog, pick up and knit 83 (87, 91, 95, 97) sts evenly spaced across bound-off edge of yoke.
Beg with a WS row, work even in K1, p1 Rib for 5 rows.
Increase Row (RS): Sl 1, (k1, p1) 6 (7, 7, 7, 7) times, (k1, p1, k1) in next st, p1, (k1, p1) 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) times, (k1, p1, k1) in next st, p1, (k1, p1) 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) times, (k1, p1, k1) in next st, p1, (k1, p1) 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) times, (k1, p1, k1) in next st, p1, (k1, p1) 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) times, (k1, p1, k1) in next st, p1, (k1, p1) 6 (7, 7, 7, 7) times - 93 (97, 101, 105, 107) sts at the end of this row.
Work even in K1, p1 Rib for 7 rows.
Increase Row: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) times, (k1, p1, k1) in next st, *p1, (k1, p1) 6 times, (k1, p1, k1) in next st; rep from * once more, p1, (k1, p1) 6 (6, 8, 8, 7) times, (k1, p1, k1) in next st, **p1, (k1, p1) 6 times, (k1, p1, k1) in next st; rep from ** once more, p1, (k1, p1) 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) times - 105 (109, 113, 117, 119) sts at the end of this row.
Work even in K1, p1 Rib until collar measures about 8 in.

(20.5 cm).
Bind off loosely.



FINISHING
Sew side, Sleeve, and raglan seams.
Buttons (make 2)
With crochet hook and 2 strands of yarn held tog, chain 2.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around; join with sl st in first sc - 12 sc at the end of this rnd.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc2tog) 6 times; join with sl st in first st.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Weave tail through sts of last rnd and pull to close opening.

Flatten button slightly and take a stitch or 2 through all thicknesses to secure.

Sew buttons to Left Front opposite buttonholes.
Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES
beg = begin(s)(ning)
ch(s) = chain(s)
hdc = half double crochet
sc = single crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
beg = begin(s)(ning)
ch(s) = chain(s)
rep = repeat(s)(ing)
rnd(s) = round(s)
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
approx = approximately
beg = begin(s)(ning)
ch(s) = chain(s)
dec = decreas(e)(s)(ing)
fpsc = front post single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
inc = increas(e)(s)(ing)
rem = remain(s)(ing)
rep = repeat(s)(ing)
rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sl = slip
st(s) = stitch(es)
tbl = through the back loop
tog = together
yo = yarn over
beg = begin(s)(ning)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together
k3tog = knit 3 together
p = purl
Pm = place marker
rep = repeat(s)(ing)
rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
sl = slip
sl st = slip stitch
St st = Stockinette stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
tog = together
WS = wrong side


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