Free Loom Pattern from Lion Brand Yarn, formatted for input to refreshable Braille displays or Braille software
Loom-Knit Cables and Lace Scarf
Lion Brand® Vanna's Choice®
Pattern Number: kbcablescarf Copyright April 2009 by Faith Ann Schmidt. All rights reserved. Reproduced with permission of Authentic Knitting Board.

SKILL LEVEL:  Easy (Level 2)
SIZE: One Size
4 1/2 x 57"

CORRECTIONS: None

MATERIALS

860-305 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Pearl Mist

Linen and cream heather


Quantity needed: 1 Skeins
Estimated Price: $ 4.39

The Knitting Board
Quantity needed: 1
Estimated Price: $ 44.95


Large-Eyed Blunt Needles
Quantity needed: 1
Estimated Price: $ 3.59

Additional Materials
Knitting hook (included with Knitting Board)
GAUGE:
Knitting Board set at 1/2" spacing between boards with 18+ needles. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. The needle or hook size called for in the pattern is based on what the designer used, but it is not unusual for gauge to vary from person to person. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make your swatch, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles. Making a Gauge Swatch
Exact gauges is not imporant to this project.


INSTRUCTIONS



NOTES 1.

Stockinette cast on and stitch-See http://www.knittingboard.com/v/vspfiles/knittingboard-cast-on.pdf.

2.

Start Knitting in a Rib Stitch.

When wrapping the rows,take the yarn up to the 3rd pin on the back board, and then down to the 2nd pin on the front board.

Wrap every other pin until you reach the end of the board.

The end pins are wrapped consecutively The picture shows what the board should look like at this point.

Take the yarn straight across the end and wrap the pins that were skipped on the way down.

The end pins are wrapped consecutively.

The picture shows the board fully wrapped.

Notice how the last two pins are wrapped.

The yarn is taken to the outside of the pin and wrapped around it as you would wrap a pin for the figure 8 stitch.

Doing this helps to keep your edges nice and even The picture shows this close-up.

This wrapping pattern does not apply to the cast on row, which is wrapped in the regular Stockinette cast on stitch.

Wrapping the board in this way is what produces the lacey effect.

3.

Left Cable Twist: To make the first Left Cable Twist, lift the loops off of pins 4 and 5 on the front board and place them on the pins directly behind them.

This is just to hold them until you want them.

Move the loop from pin 6 to pin 4 and the loop from pin 7 to pin 5.

Now take the loop that was on pin 5 and move it to pin 7.

Take the loop that was on pin 4 and move it to pin 6.

To make the second Left Cable Twist, lift the loops off of pins 8 and 9 on the front board and place them on the pins directly behind them.

Move the loop from pin 10 to pin 8 and the loop from pin 11 to pin 9.

Now take the loop that was on pin 9 and move it to pin 11.

Take the loop that was on pin 8 and move it to pin 10.

To make the last Left Cable Twist, lift the loops off of pins 12 and 13 on the front board and place them on the pins directly behind them.

Move the loop from pin 14 to pin 12 and the loop from pin 15 to pin 13.

Now take the loop that was on pin 13 and move it to pin 15.

Take the loop that was on pin 12 and move it to pin 14.

Wrap the row as usual and pick over.

The cable row is completed.

You only make the cable crossing on the front board.

The picture shows what the board should look like after the loops have been moved.

4.

Right Cable Twist: To make the first Right Cable Twist, lift the loops off of pins 6 and 7 on the front board and place them on the pins directly behind them.

This is just to hold them until you want them.

Move the loop from pin 5 to pin 7 and the loop from pin 4 to pin 6.

Now take the loop that was on pin 7 and move it to pin 5.

Take the loop that was on pin 6 and move it to pin 4.

To make the second Right Cable Twist, lift the loops off of pins 10 and 11 on the front board and place them on the pins directly behind them.

Move the loop from pin 9 to pin 11 and the loop from pin 8 to pin 10.

Now take the loop that was on pin 11 and move it to pin 9.

Take the loop that was on pin 10 and move it to pin 8.

To make the last Right Cable Twist, lift the loops off of pins 14 and 15 on the front board and place them on the pins directly behind them.

Move the loop from pin 13 to pin 15 and the loop from pin 12 to pin 14.

Now take the loop that was on pin 15 and move it to pin 13.

Take the loop that was on pin 14 and move it to pin 12.

Wrap the row as usual and pick over.

The cable row is completed.

You only make the cable crossing on the front board.

The picture shows what the board should look like after the loops have been moved.

5.

To make moving the loops easier, wrap the row directly before the cable row loosely.

If you wrap that row too tightly, it is more difficult to pull the loops to the right pins.

6.

When moving the loops for the cables, pull gently but firmly.

The loops will stretch as long as the yarn has some stretch to it.

Do not use yarn that has very little stretch, such as cotton.

Wool, wool blends, and some acrylics are a good choice.

7.

When the instructions say to Knit row, refer to weave pattern in note #2.



SCARF Cast on 18 pins, using the stockinette cast on (See Pattern Notes #1).

Rows 1-3: Knit (See Pattern Notes #2) Row 4: Left Cable Twist (See Pattern Notes #3) Rows 5-7: Knit Row 8: Right Cable Twist (See Pattern Notes #4) Repeat these 8 rows until scarf is 57” or desired length, ending with either row 4 or row 8.

Knit (3) more rows.

Bind off both ends.

Weave in ends.

Every effort has been made to have the knitting and crochet instructions accurate and complete. We cannot be responsible for variance of individual knitters and crocheters, human errors, or typographical mistakes.
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